December 2, 2023

What Occurred: It’s lastly right here. Ever since Alessandro Michele stepped down as inventive director of Gucci in 2022, the style world has been ready to see how the Italian model would method its subsequent step.

Slightly than rent a movie star inventive director to fill Michele’s footwear, the model introduced that the comparatively unknown Sabato De Sarno would succeed Michele earlier this 12 months. And now, to cap off Milan Vogue Week De Sarno has proven his debut outing for Gucci with the Spring/Summer time 2024 assortment titled “Ancora,” that means “nonetheless.”   

De Sarno already confirmed a preview of his tackle Gucci final month with a jewellery marketing campaign starring Daria Werbowy, the early 2000s supermodel.

Werbowy didn’t stroll in the present day’s present however was in attendance, alongside new stars like Halle Bailey, slot Emma Chamberlain and Unhealthy Bunny, and trend stalwarts like Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino (De Sarno’s longtime boss previous to his Gucci appointment), Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault and, in fact, Anna Wintour. 

Together with his first full ready-to-wear assortment, De Sarno largely stayed true to the aesthetic he showcased within the jewellery marketing campaign, an off-the-cuff, paired-down type worlds away from Michele’s quirky, colourful glitz and glam. Lower than 24 hours after Peter Hawkings confirmed his debut assortment for Tom Ford with a present that largely mimicked the codes of his predecessor, De Sarno confirmed a extra forward-thinking method to the powerhouse Gucci label.

The Jing Take: Garments apart, the principle money-maker of any luxurious trend home nowadays are the equipment. And Alessandro Michele discovered a large hit within the fur-trimmed mules he created for Gucci in 2015. Within the footwear division, De Sarno has put his bets on a staggering platform model of the home’s beloved horsebit idler. Sensible? Not likely, however nor have been the furry slides and it’s simple to think about the platforms tromping the streets of Milan and Paris in trend week avenue type photographs to return. 

However De Sarno isn’t pulling from the Michele playbook in his general imaginative and prescient. His work seems to be extra akin to his contemporaries like Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta with one look exhibiting a unfastened, low-slung denim paired with white tank prime. There’s little in the best way of the ’70s glamour each Michele and Tom Ford injected into Gucci throughout their eras, however as an alternative an embrace of in the present day’s quiet luxurious aesthetic with the opening look exhibiting an extended duster coat with a refined Gucci stripe hidden within the slit, paired with brief shorts and a white tank. The Gucci double-G sample made an look in an identical brief and shirt look, however De Sarno   

Even whereas the present concluded with a number of beaded cocktail attire, whose easy boxy shapes made them look as if they may have come from Prada’s atelier, De Sarno’s tackle the Gucci girl is resolutely informal, with grey hoodies atop pencil skirts and white sneakers paired with little black attire. De Sarno himself took his bow in a black T-shirt, denims and Converse.

Michele’s colourful, long-haired ’70s aesthetic proved to be an ideal match for stars like Jared Leto and Harry Types, serving to Gucci stand out on purple carpets and in journal editorials all through his tenure. De Sarno has already established a muse in 2000s icon Daria Werbowy, and but his tackle Gucci feels modern.

Probably a number of of the younger stars within the entrance row will probably be seen sporting Gucci in avenue type photographs within the seasons to return.